I was searching for something regarding Xiao Yang’s — the place for shēngjiān in this city — and came across this great video about the shēngjiān experience there.  Of course it is better than anything I can do with a camera, but I am nonetheless considering introducing more videos like this one to this site in the coming months, so look out for them.  Meanwhile, enjoy this one.

Heaven in a half-fried dough shell from Josh Chin on Vimeo.

★★★☆☆

On my way out yesterday morning, I was desperately seeking my favorite jiānbǐng vendor for a delicious, cheap, and savory breakfast.  To my complete disappointment, Mei Ling – jiānbǐng extraordinaire – was already sold out of most of her ingredients (it was 7:45 A.M.).  Seeking some kind of alternative, I stumbled down the rabbit-hole lane of my neighborhood wet market.  Having passed up everything because they all seemed to be fried, I actually wandered back out near my apartment complex, making a complete circle (it is very easy to get turned around in these markets that extend into various lanes).

Seeing I was getting late for where I needed to be, I went to the closest stall selling something: I ordered a bag of guōtiē.

Yes.  Fried, greasy, pork filled guōtiē for breakfast.  I guess what’s the different between that and bacon and toast, anyway?

The black cast iron griddle, which were frying and crisping the dumplings, was just coming off its flame when I approached, which meant these were ridiculously fresh.  Sprinkled with scallions and black sesame seeds, six (the minimum order at my stand) were dropped into a Styrofoam plate, doused with the requisite cù, and then wrapped into a plastic bag.  That ran me 4元.

I knew better (from painful past experiences) than to eat these immediately.  Instead, I walked to the metro, guōtiē in tow, and eagerly waited for them to cool.

These potstickers were incredible.  I was pleasantly surprised that they did not boast nearly as much greasy broth as their cousin, the shēngjiānbāo, which normally burst with melted pork fat.  Instead, these were somehow – I dare say it – light.  The wrappers weren’t overbearing or too thick, the bottoms well browned and crisp, and the interior meat was tender, but not overly juicy.  After the first, I quickly shoveled the rest down.

So, this is not quite the most traditional – or healthy – breakfast out there, but if you can stomach them in the morning, get these guōtiē while they’re hot.

• Dongxin Lu Wet Market
• Dongxin Lu Extension and Dongxin Lu near Wuning Lu
• Putuo District